Before any other stitch can be formed, it begins as a straight stitch. This stitch is called a straight stitch. It is made by wrapping an upper thread around a lower bobbin thread and tightening them to what is known as a locked stitch. This connection is made inside the fabric when everything is properly set.andnbsp; From 1846 until 1950, home sewing machines were restricted to sewing stitches repetitively all in a straight line. Thus we get the name: straight stitch. These sewing machines were capable of changing the length of the stitch by varying the distance between stitches. Hence the user could sew very fine stitches. Or she could sew medium length stitches. Or she could sew much longer stitches now called basting stitches.
A huge change took place in home sewing machines during the late 1940s and early 1950s. Sewing machine manufacturers introduce a new feature. Instead of sewing only in a straight line, the new sewing machines could sew to the left and then to the right and repeat the pattern again and again. The zig zag stitch was born. Suddenly, the capacity of stitch variety had more than doubled. Instead of just adjusting stitch length to produce a few variation, the zig zag machines could alter the width of the stitch (0mm to 5 mm to 9mm for top of line modern machines) as well. This actually made it possible for a sewing machine to boast six or eight stitch functions depending entirely on how the sewing machine was set.
The side to side stitching creates some dynamic visual effects that inspired increased creativity. Generally, these stitches are called zig zag stitches regardless of width or length, however, very long stitches are also called zig zag basting stitches. We call very fine or short zig zag stitches satin stitches.
andnbsp;The threads lie side by side giving an embellished flare to the stitching. It is important, however, to produce a consistent stitch where the thread do not bunch up or leave gaps between stitches. A trial sewing on scrap fabric is always a good idea. To sew a satin stitch, it is essential to use a satin stitch presser foot. The standard zig zag stitch presser foot has a ridge that catch on threads if the threads begin to bunch up. The satin stitch presser foot has a groove on the bottom of the foot to permit the stitches to neatly flow under the presser foot without becoming bunched up or snagged by the presser foot. Regulate the satin stitch just like you would a straight stitch. Set the stitch length knob to a very very short length. Then test the stitch. If you see gaps between the threads, turn the length a bit shorter. If you see thread bubbling up, out of place, or over other threads; slightly lengthen the stitch. This is an art, but once you get the right setting on test cloth, you should be ready to sew a beautiful satin stitch.
Steering the fabric while sewing a satin stitch is very important. While generally, all sewing should use the same basic procedure, it is even more important for the satin stitch to produce the very best results. Begin by placing the edge of the fabric under the presser foot. Then set your right hand on the right edge of the fabric to guide the fabric as you sew. Position your right hand comfortably three to four inches in front of the needle and presser foot. Never reach under the arm of the sewing machine to pull the fabric through the machine. If the fabric is not moving there is a problem.
Use your left hand to keep the fabric flowing smooth while sewing. Flatten out folds, wrinkles, and bunches. Keep the fabric even. Avoid tugging on the fabric, placing your hand behind the needle, or attempting to assist the operation of the sewing machine itself. Just keep the fabric coming smooth and flat.
When sewing curves with a satin stitch, remember not to turn too sharply. A gradual run will keep the satin stitch from leaving spaced between the threads. It may be necessary to slightly shorten the stitch length if you are find too many open spaces between threads along curves.